Sewn

The girls aren't going anywhere.

2012-01-31T21:19:00.000-08:00

This bodice is crazy boned. The girls have no chance but to stay in place. I wish I could get a picture of it on me, but without the skirt done and Steve at school, it is left to the hanger to give it justice. I'm worried I used a little too much boning...I'll see on Friday at class. 

My fitting last Friday went really well. Yes, the muslin was way too big, as I knew it would be. But that's better than being too small at a fitting!

My teacher taught us how to average seam lines in alterations once everything is pinned where it should be. 

Let's take the side seams. If we want to take in side seams, we get someone to pin a new seam line in the garment, right? Right. But NO ONE, and I mean NO ONE can take out equal amounts from both side seams to make it even. It's just not possible. but the good thing is is that you don't need to be perfect. 

My bodice with blue chalk marks showing where the new seam lines should be. 

Once the garment is off, transfer each new seam line to the pattern. Then, ta da, average them to get the perfectly balanced seam line that will fit both sides! SO EASY. 

Transferring my new seam lines to my pattern. Instead of cutting out the extra from my pattern, I trace the pattern and cut it out so that I always have the old pattern to refer back to. 

I love this class so much! I'm learning line crazy. I bought the charmeuse for my under-lay the other day at Yellow Bird. It cost me an arm and a leg but it's totally worth it (once again I had to curb Steve's reaction to the receipt by reminding him it's all tax deductible :D)

However, it is great to have such a great mom who buys you a new iron when your 7-year-old costco iron dies right in the middle of doing homework. You can get this little bute at Bed Bath and Beyond! It steams beautifully.

More homework tomorrow: advanced pattern making and I need to make a pair of panties for my intimate apparel class :)))

I love school!

Hem and Haw

2012-01-25T21:09:00.000-08:00

Tonight, I:

Hemmed two pairs of girl jeans:

AND hemmed a wedding dress (not scary at all)

Crappy picture

All in a night's work.

Do you need alterations and live in the Salt Lake area?? Email me. 

School tomorrow! Advanced Pattern Making, specifically.

Academy Awards, Here I Come!

2012-01-22T21:52:00.000-08:00

No, I haven't been in an independent film and no I'm not nominated for anything, but I am making an evening gown for my bridal/evening wear class at SLCC!! It's my favorite class so far this semester. My teacher is amazing and I know I am going to learn a TON. 

Last week after my first class our homework assignment was to design our gown, and show our inspiration. I designed a gown and brought in some swatches of fabric I already have (trying to be frugal and not spend a ton of money), but my teacher said my gold polyester sating I wanted to use for the skirt looked cheap. Ugh, you had me at polyester. So I scratched that whole sketch, and thought of another dress I had already designed, a dress I had in mind for my little sister for her wedding one day far, FAR INTO THE FUTURE (do you hear me, Liv?) This is my sketch:

The dress has a boned bodice, with a gold charmeuse under-lay (new fabric I'll be buying after all) with a black silk chiffon over-lay.  I bought this lace at Mood when I was in New York City over New Year's, which will be placed on the hem, the waist, possibly the neckline, and the hem on the sleeves. It's beige applique on black tulle. I love how modern and updated it is for a lace. I think it'll go well with the gold charmeuse. 

This week I had to make the entire pattern for my dress, plus sew the muslin mock up and have everything ready by this Friday..... crazy town. SO much to do! I was able to get the pattern done using the slopers I already have from BYU (which I use for all the patterns I make for this blog) which is great and saved me a bunch of time. So far the muslin fits pretty well. I know I'll need to take it a bit (I've lost weight!)

In class I'll set the neckline to the V-neck in my sketch, get the fitting right, of course hem it, and fix the boning to fit my shape perfectly. I'm so excited. I've never sewn with boning before, except for at work doing alterations. I've never sewn a GOWN for start to finish before, either! It feels great! This week, before my Friday class, I have to make the sleeves and part of the skirt in the chiffon for my muslin. Pictures to come! 

Here is what the inside of my bodice looks like with bodice, if you care to see...by tilting your head to the right since blogger screws up sometimes and doesn't turn the photos!!! 

Umm hello two months ago!

2012-01-12T18:26:00.000-08:00

I have a really great excuse. Honestly. On November 12, the day I stopped righting for two dang months, I decided to go back to school. 

Back. TO school. 

Fashion School, that is. At Salt Lake Community College. It was a big step to take only because my husband is also starting grad school at the exact same time that I start... which is this week! So life got pretty crazy pretty fast. I haven't even cut out my coat. I did make a dress, that I will be posting asap. I just have to line the sleeves, and we'll call it done. It is a great dress. I can't wait to show you! 

My coat will come to life. I promise. Some time this year while my creative mind slaves happily away in Fashion School. giddy. 

 I went to NEW YORK CITY FOR EIGHT DAYS on vaca with my perfect husband. 

The vacation was.... breathtaking. I ate my butt off (not really...I didn't gain any weight, but I definitely didn't lose ANY!). 

The bakeries...the burgers....the bagels..... oh my the food. I dream about it. I had a crepe at a great place on the upper west side, it almost made me cry. I ordered a second it was so good. 

I hope you cry from jealousy from my photos. You really should, or you have never known true joy. A new york joy. 


That crazy illusive food we call crepe. It had me at it's description on the menu: "Sweet butter and sugar crepe". Do ya get the gist of it? No. You can't. You weren't there as a swallowed every morsel.


THE BAKERIES. The bakeries. So much love at Ferrara Bakery in Little Italy. Of all the bakeries found on our bakery crawls (yes, we crawled), Ferrara was our favorite. They ship their cannolis nationally!

And me, in front of my favorite store in the whole world. Henri Bendel #1. It's a real shame they stopped selling clothing in 2009 and just stuck with accessories. Their clothes were amazing. oh well. The spring in my step that came from holding that bag on my wrist all day shook the Brooklyn Bridge.

Oh and of COURSE I went to Mood. I bought a few things. All tax deductibles since I'm a student now, which I had to remind Steve of as the cashier rang us up for a small fortune.

I want to say that we'll move here someday. Steve absolutely loved the place. He still talks about it. He looks it up on Google Earth at work. If not in the city, we will definitely end up on the East Coast. Connecticut maybe. Just close enough to that elusive city. 

Help me decide

2011-11-11T14:30:00.000-08:00

 deets

deets 

I can't decide between these two wools for my coat. I am drawn to the plaid, but afraid of matching all the lines up in my coat like a nice burberry. 

OOOORRRR should I listen to my theatrical side and go with something a bit more eye catching, maybe like this?

Remember though, I *am* using this fur for the collar and lining of the hood:

If I can't do something fun on the outside, maybe a party on the inside with mustard charmeuse as a lining?

Thoughts please.

Sketch

2011-11-10T17:59:00.001-08:00

Do I've come up with a sketch for my coat, and I'm really loving it. I am concerned about what color I am going to do...I feel like with all the added details, like the cape and the fur collar, that I have to keep the color very simple, like a gray or navy. I'd hate to make a great coat so boring, but I feel like it's a must in this case. I love my fur and capes too much to pass them by for a plaid wool or bright grass green. Am I right? Seriously, I need your comments. 

The hood is going to be detachable. The sleeves are going to be bracelet length, which is right above the wrist. Ever notice that nothing I make goes all the way to my wrists? That's because I hate that claustrophobic feeling of something sitting there and getting dirty. eesh. 

Don't judge me by this rude sketch. My hands were freezing when I drew it and I kind of hurried it.  

I started the basic pattern making last night. From my basic sloper, I fashioned a basic coat foundation from the rules in my pattern-making book. From this, I'll make the design with a double-breasted opening, slat pockets, cape, hood, two-piece sleeves, and two-piece collar. 

stupid blogger getting my pictures all screwy.

The more I look at my sketch, the more I realize my coat should really be a simple boring color. O well. At leased there will be leopard fur. 

Famous last words.

That chill in the air.

2011-11-09T20:36:00.000-08:00

Man, it was a great day. I rocked it out at work (didn't mess up once!), made the most amazing steak ever for dinner, and then I rocked it out in my sewing room tonight for dessert:

 Pinterest has truly inspired some amazing designs out of me. My favorite thing is to take three or four dresses or skirts or other articles of clothing and combining to make them my own. It is such a great digital bulletin board of wonderful ideas. So follow me if your interested in what I'M interested in...which is happens to be a lot of design and how- to projects. 

The chill in the air has made me want a new coat, and not just any old coat from a store, but a coat that I MAKE! I haven't made a coat since college, and that was just a shorty one that is way too thick for my liking. This coat is going to be full length, perhaps green with a fur collar (?), and overall a combination of a few coats I found on Net-A-Porter (also on my "inspire" board). Take a gander through my design process with me:

I definitely want a cape aspect, but I don't want the cape part fall past my elbows:

I love the back of this cape coat, and the length of the cape is perfect. It will still have sleeves though... I don't like cold arms. 

I love a good hood, too. So warm and cozy. Imagine if my coat were green and the lining of the hood was leopard fur??? If there is a hood, maybe no collar?

 The combo of the last two pictures would be PRICELESS, right? ooo I'm so excited. Check back later for the pattern making steps! 

PS

Don't worry, it won't look like this:

The never-finished blouse

2011-11-05T16:17:00.000-07:00

Last night I finally hunkered down and finished my Anna Sui blouse that has been hanging in my sewing room for weeks now just begging to be hemmed. The roll-hem foot that I've been practicing with is tricky...especially on a very loose-weave light-weight chiffon like mine. The blouse is tucked in for the pictures because, well, the hem just sucks. I think I'll just wear the blouse under dresses or tucked in from now on... I can't really fix the hem right now because unpicking it would just ruin the fabric, and cutting it off would make the blouse just too short for my taste. O well. My next blouse will be that much better!

The Big Reveal

2011-10-23T09:59:00.000-07:00

I really love my table. I love it when my eyes land on it as I walk into my apartment (As Oprah says: "my home stands up and greets me"...or something like that) . The candlestick holder that my sister got me last Christmas looks mighty fine-- much better on this than the stark black table I had once. My favorite part? The white dipped chair legs. I hope you enjoy looking at my re-do as much as I do!!!

It's not all peachy-king though. I do have the bumby lines from the paint tape on the border, but I left a box of soda cans on the top of the table for a couple days, and when I picked it up this happened:

&%($&%(%*!!!!!!!!!!!! Was my veneer not all the way dry??? can someone tell me what I did wrong? 

Still, I am proud of myself.

If you are just joining me on my big adventure here is:

Part 1: sanding
Part 2: primer
Part 3: paint

Table re-do part tres: paint

2011-10-21T20:29:00.000-07:00

Sorry about yesterday. I know I am supposed to reveal my table and all today, but i got caught up last night at a family dinner and forgot to blog. So the big reveal will be Saturday!!!

Painting (water based). Because I hardly primed my table at all, it took about three paint jobs on my table, legs, and chairs. This took the longest amount of time. The primer took very little time to dry, but with paint I had to do one coat one night, wait till the next night and do the next, so on and so on. Steve was great during this time. He helped me so much painting the chairs every night. I love him.

Steve cleaning up after a night of painting.

One coat done!

After all the coats were done, it was time for the details. I was inspired by this table top and these dipped legs.  With the table top, I drew the lines out with a pencil and a ruler. It took me a while to figure out that I had to wait to paint the square corners until the painted border had dried. I had to do it this way because the lines I made were 2" wide, and the tape I bought was 1 1/2" wide... meaning those two inch squares were way to hard to make perfect if I had painted it all at once:


That square center is far from perfect in this picture. This would have never worked. I should have bought 2" tape.

So I had to do the border first, wait for it dry, and then paint the squares. It took foooorrrr dddaaaayyyysss to finish.

The finished product.... not so hot. Those bumpy lines were/are keeping me up at night. The tape I used wasn't great or I didn't wait long enough or too long for the paint to dry??? I don't know. A girl at work suggested I use Frog Tape instead of normal paint tape.... Anyway, I used a small paint brush for touch ups. From far away, it looks great. So as long as Steve and I eat on the couch and stare at our table it's all good.

Now for the chairs. I measured up the leg 6" and marked it. Then with the painter's tape I decided white tipped legs over gold ones (the white looked so good against the gray) For some reason, the tape worked way better (no bumps) on the chairs than on the table. 

I thought about doing gold dipped table legs, but when my sister, Anna, saw them all she could think of was an 80's dinner table (and not in a good way). I'll save the gold spray paint for another project. 

After the gold dried, I sanded it ALL THE WAY off, primed the ends twice, and then did two coats of white paint. 

The veneer came last after waiting 24 hours for the last coats of paint to dry. I did three coats fo veneer with a 24 hour period inbetween. FOOORRR DAAAYYYSSS. Veneer is really important though; without it, your job turns crappy fast. We used a combination of spray veneer for the chairs (easy to get in all those nooks and crannies) and paint on for the table top. Between each coat a light sanding is required, and when I was going over one chair, THE PAINT STARTED PEELING OFF!!!!!!

Once again, I believe this is due too my lack of proper sanding and priming. To fix the problem, I sanded this area of the chair all the way down to the raw wood, primed twice, and then did all my coats of paint AGAIN. 

This was such a great learning experience for me. I would totally do it again since I now understand how to do it. What's that saying? If you fail once, try try again?

Table re-do part deux: priming

2011-10-19T18:25:00.000-07:00

Priming. Priming priming priming. I do not know what happened with my regular pant primer (oil based) when I did my table top, but once it dried, I had to sand down the whole thing off and start again. I think the problem was that I used a paint brush. For some reason the primer would not spread thin enough with a brush. I had to switch to my handy dandy roller to finish the job. 

see the paint strokes? Not cool beans. If I didn't sand this down and do it again, you would see every stroke through the paint. 

After the sand down. Looking at this now, I should have sanded ALL THE WAY THROUGH the black paint to the raw wood. 

Once I used the roller, the primer went on a little better. I'm still not sure why it was going on so thick.... anyone know? 

The next mistake I made was I only did ONE COAT of primer on a black table and chairs that are meant to go to white. Stupid. I should have done at least 3 coats of primer, with a light sanding in-between coats (the light sanding is necessary).

The chairs were tricky. I barely sanded them down at first (stupid) and I used the paint brush to apply the primer on two of the chairs. On the other two, I had Steve use the spray primer (oil based). The results were better, but the chairs would have been great if I had done... MORE THAN ONE COAT.

as you can see, this project took over my entire apartment.

Now, to clean your brushes/rollers of oil-based paint is quite the process. You can't just use water and soap in a sink.... I did not know this until Steve checked on the internet how to really dispose of it:

Paint thinner should be used to remove oil-based paint from brushes. Once the brush is clean of paint, rinse the brush in the sink with stinking hot water.

To get rid of oil-based paint on your hands, scrub your skin with canola oil and salt. Rinse with the hottest water you can stand.

Water-based primer is ok, but it takes A WEEK to cure before you can paint over it. Ugh, no thank you. A trip the the recycling plant to dispose of the paint thinner (don't throw it away!) is worth the week saved. Save the water-based for the paint...tomorrow!

yes, it's been awhile.

2011-10-18T18:56:00.000-07:00

Hello all. I have not dropped off the face of the sewing earth, I have merely been visiting the moon of furniture. It is quite the place-- full of high stress and time is sucked into a black hole until you realize that you've spent two and half weeks refurbishing a table that was in perfect condition in the first place. I just had a burst of energy three weeks ago to paint my black table white and gray.... this is what pinterest has done to me: given me inspiration that leads to sleepless nights inhaling paint fumes in my apartment (I have no garage or workshop).

I saw this furniture DIY on pinterest and was dying to do something like it. I scanned the furniture in my apartment and decided on the table; I had too much black in the place anyway. I'm going to wait till Friday to show you all the finished product... yep, this blog post is a whole week long of details! yippee for a whole week of new posts, right!?....right?

alright, alright. here's a sneak peak:

So I started by going to Home Depot and after consulting many furniture how to's (here, and here, and here) I decided on using oil-based primer and water-based paint. Here is the rest of the stuff I needed:

Top to bottom row, Left to Right:

1. Water based paint

2. Floetrol: helps reduce paint-stroke lines as you paint....supposedly. I didn't really notice a difference. 

3. Water-based top coat

4. oil-based primer in paint or spray (spray was easier but way more expensive. I needed about 4 cans just to do four chairs). 

5. lint-free wipe cloths

6. Purdy paint brush. I scrapped this early on and just used a small roller... you'll see why. 

7. Painter's tape: a MUST for the corner details on the table.

8. A sander...but not the dinky one pictured. You need a heavy duty power sander. That dinky one couldn't sand down a chopstick. 

underneath everything: canvas drop cloth. 

So, first step after I got home from Home Depot: SANDING. I did NOT SAND ENOUGH AT ALL. I really only took off the top veneer coat...a wrong doing. I really should have gone all the way through the paint and touched the wood. I think my table would have looked better afterward if I had. 

Here we go with the power sander! I have a Ryobi sander. 

TIP: don't wear your favorite Ann Taylor sequin top. Change into your "painter's clothes".

This is about as far as I got sanding. See? Totally not enough. A black table turned to a white table needs much more prep than I thought.....as you will see in tomorrow's exciting post about....

PRIMING!!!

You transfix me quite.

2011-09-26T18:39:00.000-07:00

My blouse is soooo close to done. All I have to do is hem it, make the belt, and sew the button and eye closure for the center back neckline opening. I don't know when I'll finish.... wednesday? my schedule is so crazy this week. For some reason that lives in the Pinterest section of my brain came an idea this weekend that has me hypnotized. THAT is coming later.... here is a clue:

practice makes.... curse words

2011-09-20T19:45:00.000-07:00

My sewing machine has been "fixed", if that's what the lady did at the Bernina store. She basically told me I was being a baby and not to be afraid to push my machine around a bit. It wasn't going to bite me or break under my 3rd-grader-sized hands. I suppose that was a relief. 

I've been practicing my roll-hem foot tonight before I finish up my blouse. As you can plainly see I need more practice. Anna Sui silk doesn't deserve these finishes.

I don't need Anthro.

2011-09-18T17:45:00.000-07:00

That's right. With Pinterest invading my life, I need anthro jewelry no more. Pinterst screams at me: FOR HEAVEN'S SAKE YOU CAN DO IT YOURSELF!

And I did. yesterday I mentioned this necklace: 

and then I also found this one: 

and I decided to combine the two to make my own. One of the girl's on project runway wears an amazing pearl necklace that I've stored in my mental file folder of things to buy/make when I have the time, and luckily yesterday was the time I needed. 

Another one of my great How-To's!

You will need (all from Joann's jewelry making section):

1. gold chain, or silver, or whatever color you like!

2. pearls. lots and lots of pearls. FAKE pearls, or real pearls if you've got the dough. I used several sizes and shapes of pearls. 

3. clasp for chain

4. beading thread

5. crimp beads

6. jump rings (small and large rings). 

7. Pliers and wire-cutting pliers.  

Start off by cutting a 14" piece of beading thread. Thread one end into a crimping bead and a smaller jump loop, and then back into the crimping bead. Crimp the bead with the pliers as shown. You can not the beading thread after this if you like. I didn't because.....I didn't want to....

Start beading your thread with the pearls! I made two strands of each size bead, making 12 strands total. This was the beastly part. It took 1.5 Netflix movies till I was done. Make the same ending to the strand as done in the first step, with crimping bead and jump loop. The strand should measure 12-13 inches when done, and all strands should be the same size. 

 Split the 12 strands into 2 groups of six, mixing up the different beads. Put all six strands on two large jump loop at both ends. Use the pliers. 

Place the large jump loops on the chain, and close the loops. Closing the loops is tricky. I tended to overlap the loop ends to make sure they don't open. If you buy better quality supplies than what Joann's carries, this probably won't be a problem.  Does anyone know a good supplier?

Use the wire cutters to cut the chain to the length you want. If make it long enough, you won't need a clasp at all. My chain from pearl end to pearl end measures 13". I might even make it smaller. If you need a clasp, I joined large jump loops to the middle of the chain (cutting the chain again), and then put the clasp in the middle of the jump loops. 

Well, I've discovered Pinterest.

2011-09-17T16:44:00.000-07:00

And the DIY section. OK....gotta love it. I have so many ideas now my mind is racing! I feel the need to go to Joanne's and replenish my hot glue gun sticks...and buy a string of fake pearls to make this necklace:

But that will be tomorrow's post, so stay tuned. 

Tonight, however, I did make a new wreath for Halloween (mine and my sister's favorite holiday). I combined two ideas that I found on Pinterest:

this + this

equals this:

Now all I need is a cuter door.

Here is how I did it (yes, a real how-to this time):

You will need:

1. A foam wreath thing-y. I got an 18" flat edge, and then rounded out the edges with a knife.

2. Burlap. Probably 1 yard. You can get it at Joann's.

3. Glue gun and sticks.

4. Black fabric/ contrasting fabric to the burlap. I have ribbon pictured, but that ended up not working to well, so I used black organza I had laying around. 1/2 yard will do.

5. A snack. Dots preferred.

Cut a 3" wide strip of burlap, secure one end with glue to the wreath, and wrap wrap wrap around. Wrap till you can't wrap no more.

For the ruffles, cut strips of both burlap and contrasting fabric 10" by 2 1/2".

Ruffle the strips by folding them on themselves, making a half circle ruffle.

Secure ruffle with sewing machine. Do the same steps for contrasting fabric. You'll need 20-30 ruffles in each fabric.

Start gluing the ruffles. Glue each successive ruffle at the base of the ruffle preceding it.

And it's that simple people. A Halloween feast for the eyes, with fewer calories.

There is no such word as "fail" in my bright lexicon.

2011-09-15T18:38:00.000-07:00

I got off work early today. At 2:45 in the pm, I was on headed south on the I15 with a smile of relief that there wasn't much to do today. I decided to go to my local Bernina dealer and buy a roll hemmer foot so that I can have a nice clean edge on my Anna Sui blouse. When I got home, I practiced and practiced with scraps of the chiffon my blouse is made. For how much the foot cost it's a wonder it isn't to use. I don't have to press the hem before I sew it like I used to, but getting the fabric to roll into the foot takes a flick of the wrist.

My machine was as smooth as normal, so I thought I'd oil the hook where the bobbin case is placed. I have to take out the hook to do this. When I tried to put the hook back in, the hook wouldn't "click" back into place like it should. i tried and tried to place the hook as I know it should go, but to no avail. I might have to take my machine in to be fixed.... which means I'll have to put off my blouse. Yet another project that is stopped halfway through. Robbin Hood and now this blouse. UGH! I hate half-finished projects lying around.

Luckily, Robin Hood really only needs the serger to finish it. We'll see about all this tomorrow.

i.love.prints

2011-09-13T21:18:00.000-07:00

I don't need to buy anymore fabric....at all. But the leopard print is needed for a skirt. For the sake of the print! It calls out to me!

Buy Me

Buy Me

Buy Me

Buy Me

Buy Me

Anna Sui and sweatpants do not mix.

2011-09-12T20:36:00.000-07:00

I'm close to being done with my blouse! Sewing the knit lining and chiffon shell was easier than what I expected. I serged both layers together at the neckline with a 5/8 seam allowance, then under-stitched the lining. I then turned the blouse right side out, serged the armholes together just to keep them in place, and then sewed in the one sleeve. Bad-a-bing. Moral of the story: don't be afraid to try new things. It's not that scary once you start it. Buck up. 

I really need to get better lighting in my bedroom so my toilet isn't in every photo.

I did sew the shell side seams with a french seam. I'm to lazy.busy.tired to do a how-to with pictures and all, so I'm just going to use my words.

1. French seams are sewn with wrong sides together, at first, with a 1/4" seam allowance.

2. press the seam allowances open, and then together again. Trim to 1/8".

3. Flip the pieces so that it will be sewn right sides together. Sew a 3/8" allowance, encasing the 1/4" allowance.

4. Viola, you have a wonderful and clean unexposed seam allowance. yay.

One seam at the base (in the dark thread), and the other on the peak of the seam allowance. 

Inspiration of Late

2011-09-08T20:24:00.000-07:00

I subscribe to three different magazines, which are all read from cover to cover every month and pages are ripped out when a dress, coat, or top, even shoes peak my interest and my mind enters a frenzy of ideas and colors. 

My magazines are:

I love W because it focuses on high-end fashion, and it's nice to see the clothes that I would never see in my life in Utah. It helps me dream of other lands... Paris, London, New York (all my favorites). And I love how large the magazine is, in terms of page size. I'm pretty sure its printed on 10x14 paper. It's large with importance. 

I love Vogue because it reports on a lot of stories from the fashion world about new designers, the future of fashion jobs, and what famous designers are doing to change things up and stay current. And the editorials are, of course, amazeballs. 

Lucky may be an off choice, but I love it's focus on just the clothes. The pictures are simple and straight forward with the clothes laid out so the reader can see every detail. 

I have a box full of rippings, plus stuff I print out online. I look threw it every month or so, throwing out old stuff that I wonder why I ever kept in the first place, and also remembering older pictures that before had truly inspired. I think every sewer/designer should do this. You have to know what's happening out side of your own head.

MIA

2011-09-07T19:30:00.000-07:00

I've been gone for a week, I know. I've been super busy cooking meals for Steve, walking Bridgette, and work....always work. This past Labor Day weekend was so amazing. All I did on Monday was watch movies and read. It felt so good to do nothing, but everything that I wanted to do at the same time. I felt like an active sloth. 

So tonight after taking Bridgette to Millcreek Canyon for a hike and going to Cafe Rio, Steve sat down to study for an upcoming exam and I decided to stop reading Jude the Obscure and cut out my blouse. I also got my fabric in the mail today, so that was an extra boost of inspiration, and the fabric is wonderful! 

It took me about 15 minutes, but I'm done for the day. Cut-out Anna Sui blouse:

These Sleeves

2011-09-01T20:22:00.000-07:00

These sleeves were originally made for this unfinished blouse that I hated half way through making it. I'm glad they aren't going to waste. Actually, instead of doing a full circle sleeve on Robin Hood, I might just use these. They are a basic flared sleeve with fullness in the cap. Basic, simple, and looks great. You are going to have to cock your head to the right for this one-- it's just the sleeve before it's sewn. 

I only need to do one for this mock-up. Anna Sui will be cut up tomorrow for the real deal.

Wire Hanger

2011-08-29T19:43:00.000-07:00

I'm really grumpy today. Everything Steve or Bridgette does irritates me beyond belief. All I can do is lock myself up in my sewing room and sew away my anger into my new blouse mock-up. Although the mock-up looks great on me, I still need to escape in my room tonight, perhaps go to bed early or watch Jane Eyre for the fourth time in three days. 

Now you may think that the hounds tooth looks great, but I can't bring myself to use this cheap polyester chiffon. It's bad enough I used it to line one of my jackets. I'm definitely going to use my Anna Sui silk chiffon, and the red chiffon once I get it. I'm becoming a fabric snob. 

Ah, hell. I've always been a snob. 

Like I said, I'm using a jersey to line the blouse so it hugs my body and is uber comfy. I'm still hammering out the details to do this. With the mock-up, it worked out pretty well. I didn't finish it completely, I just serged the jersey to the neckline and arm openings. For the sleeves, I know I want something of a lining... but I'm still figuring it out, like I said. 

More tomorrow. As long I don't throw my laptop across the room in frustration.

no Internet

2011-08-24T21:27:00.001-07:00

Internet out at my place. Feel a needs to type cryptic sentences with iPhone.

One tip for the night: when this happens, change your needle to a sharper one.

Wrinkles

2011-08-22T20:10:00.000-07:00

Last week was a busy week for me. Too busy to blog. Sorry for the belated post. 

I ordered my fabric today (as it is payday), so the stuff I need for Robin Hood will be here in probably a week and a half. For the meantime, I started on a chiffon blouse that for I already had fabric.I want to make this blouse, see how it goes, and model my red one that I will be making after it. 

The fabric is s ilk chiffon Anna Sui print. It's gorgeous. I'm scared to use it before I really know about my pattern, so I'm going to make it first with a cheap polyester chiffon I bought at Joann's. Isn't it great (even if only draped over a chair)?

My blouse is going to be flow-y with or without a belt, like my two favorite blouses; the first one is from Banana, the second from Ann Taylor. The wrinkled Ann Taylor is what I talked about last time, in that it has a knit lining that hugs the body as the chiffon glides over you. I have a great black jersey that I'll try for my blouse. 

Cross Fingers! Hopefully I'll have the cheap mock-up ready for ya'll tomorrow.

What was i thinking?

2011-08-16T20:40:00.000-07:00

Sewing Man Statue in NYC

 For Robin Hood dress, I want to make the bell sleeves out of black silk chiffon. I went to Joann's today to see if they had it.

Joann's would never have SILK chiffon. Silk doesn't even exist for them. Since when does Joann's have quality fabric? Since when am I an idiot? 

I have to resort to the good ol' Fashion Fabrics Club for my quality fabrics. I find that this online vendor has the best prices and such a HUGE selection. It can't be beat. If I'm not going to Yellow Bird, I'm going to FFC. 

I found this black silk chiffon...I know the price is a bit much, but for one dress, one NICE dress, it is worth the extra pennies for quality. That is professional opinion. 

I don't know what to do about lining my petal skirt, because the only tricot I can find comes in a 12 yard bolt...I don't even need that much, but I might buy it anyway. I guess it would be nice to have for $111. Geesh. Why is it so hard to come buy? Tricot is used A TON in knit suits and dresses for fashion houses, so why would it be so hard for home sewers to come by? I'm buying that bolt...but I need to wait for my next paycheck...

I'm already planning my next project...a red silk chiffon blouse. I've never made anything red before, isn't that crazy? I have this outfit in my head... red silk blouse...black skinnies... black boots....in NYC, of course. Whenever I imagine outfits I'm in New York City. Steve asked me today what I think about when I'm bored at work, and this was the order of my reply: Clothes to make, clothes to buy, what we are eating for dinner, and New York City. And then him. 

 
For my outfit I found this red silk chiffon and this red jersey to use as a lining. I have a blouse from Anne Taylor that is chiffon with a knit undershirt...It's totally genius to have a knit underlining to a breezy silk blouse, because then the blouse has structure and comfort built in for the wearer. I can't wait to make this. And wear it in the Large Apple. 

Problem is: I have to wait to buy all this fabric and for it all to come in...so these projects are halted as of now. I guess it's time to return to the stock piles in my sewing room and make a few skirts, maybe even a blouse. Hooray for being economical and using the fabric I already have for projects!

Horrible picture

2011-08-15T20:35:00.000-07:00

But this skirt is going to be rockin. I cut out the ponte knit for a petal skirt for my Robin Hood dress. I need to figure out what I am going to line the ponte knit with...tricot, maybe? Off to the fabric store tomorrow.

Crafty Crafty

2011-08-13T19:44:00.000-07:00

I have no jewelry box. All I have is this tiny earring box I bought in London on my study abroad, so all my necklaces get shoved into a drawer, and I always forget about what I have because I can never see it. So today I thought I'd make something pretty and functional-- my two favorite adjectives. 

I knew that a tack board was the way to go, but I didn't want the ugly brown color to distract from my jewels. I got the idea to wrap it in a fabric that would go with the rest of my bedroom. And because I'm a blogger, I wanted to share with all of you how to make a pretty, yet functional "Jewel Frame". 

I got the tack board and fabric from Ikea (Tip No. 1: don't go to Ikea on a Saturday afternoon. It's the stinky, crowded pits). You'll only need half a yard of fabric for the 22.5"x15.5" board, cut 3 inches larger on each side than the board. Ikea only sells one size, but I found it big enough to fit my very limited collection. The materials cost me about 10 dollars. 

Simply put, I wrapped the tack board in fabric like a present, so that even the wood frame is covered in fabric. All I used was hot glue to do so. This is really really easy, and looking at the picture of the finished product would mean that you wouldn't have to read the rest of the post... so I'm placing that picture at the end. :D

Start by placing a bead of hot glue down the inside of the frame, on the edge of the tack board. 

And place a bead on the frame itself.

Do this one edge at a time, gluing down the fabric into the edge of the frame. If you just wrap the tack board ignoring the edge that the frame creates, you wouldn't be able to put tacks in the finished board very effectively. Trust me, I thought about this extensively, standing in Ikea for 30 minutes in the check-out line. Also, make sure the fabric is tight across the cork-- a bubble wouldn't look too great. 

Once you do all sides, it'll look like this:

For the back, just glue down one side at a time, folding the corners and gluing them down really well. I didn't want to put glue on the actual frame on the back, like I did on the front, so that I could screw the hanging eyes in without going through a layer of hot glue. I just did hot glue on the back of the cork, and it held fine. 

The Ikea tack board comes with hanging materials, the eyes and yarn. But I didn't like how flimsy the yarn was, so I just used the wire that most picture frames use. Tip No. 2: When screwing in the eyes, make a hole in the frame with a nail and hammer first. It's much easier than just sitting there trying to screw in a framing eye through fabric and wood. 

Viola! And it's done. It took me about 30 minutes to make, and I have to say it feels great to look up and see all my jewelry all nice and pretty like. I used clear tacks (that came with the board) to hand up my necklaces and earrings, Stud earrings I stuck right into the cork, and placed their backs in my old, little jewelry box. My rose brooch is just pinned into the fabric layer. I love it love it love it. There is nothing like showcasing everyday things to make you and your home more beautiful. 

Then again... It also looks like I have no jewelry! I'll just buy some more I guess...

Robin Hood

2011-08-11T17:42:00.000-07:00

The juices are flowin, people! I am back on this wagon for good! I'm so into sewing for myself again that I started sketching during down time at work! It felt incredible! Like I could breathe again.

I thought up a new detail to my new dress to make it more interesting. I LOVE color blocking, so I thought I'd add a giant black V down center front. I was doing pretty good until two things:

1. I snipped through too many layers as I was cutting out the green fabric that would be replaced by the black, and now I have a giant snip right in the front! I'll find a doo-dad to cover it, I guess. 

2. When I tried it on for Steve, the first thing he asked was :

Are you going to keep that sleeve? No wait, you can't be. Then he looked at my face. Oh... well, all you need is a bow and arrow and you'll look like Robin Hood. 

Great.  I think I might try a lighter fabric, like a black chiffon for the bell sleeves. I want to keep this style, though. OO! Black chiffon sleeves with some black lace on the shoulders, perhaps!!

I LOVE SEWING!!!!!!!!!!!!

Hold on to your hats, people. I've learned photoshop at work!

Another reason why I love Costco

2011-08-10T16:20:00.000-07:00

Today I found another reason to be grateful for Costco. Other than it's amazing cheese selection and free samples, I met someone today who has literally turned my life around-- and I don't think she even knew what she was really doing for me.

Emily approached me today in the checkout line. I had just got off work, I was exhausted, and I made a few indulgent purchases that I am now wondering where my mind was-- in candy land?

"don't think I'm weird", she said, "but I read your blog!"

Me. Recognized for my blog. FIRST TIME.

"I think you are a great seamstress, and when I'm rich I'm going to have YOU sew all my clothes for me!"

Oddly enough, this is what about everyone says in an email. ???

I then complained to her that I can't sew when I get home from work and blah blah blah everything all of you have already read here. I told her I wish I could quit, and I do. Bridgette has grown accustomed to her  new lifestyle of brand name dog treats and toys from Ikea. 

She told me when she got pregnant she had to quit her teaching job, which she loved, to take care of her kids. Our passions are different, but our situations the same. I suppose she is working for a far greater good than me, but for a moment we understood each other. 

So, that's it. I'm in this people. And no more excuses. Emily has inspired me to continue to work on my personal sewing even when I'm dog tired from work and my fingers are all dried out from messing with polyester satins all day. 

Luckily, to get myself going, I called in "sick" on Monday and actually sat down and sewed for about 5 hours. It felt wonderful to do whatever I wanted for a whole day! It felt like old times. My previous post has a sketch I had done of a PD variation. I decided to nix the ruffles in order to have a more flattering chest line. But I do love my bell sleeves. The skirt I am still figuring out-- the one I had made (the first circle skirt I had ever done) is BEYOND not flattering on me. Circle skirt on large derriere = even larger looking butt. So I'm back to the drawing board. Here is the progress so far (one bell sleeve on a bodice):

Oh! and I'm making it out of forest green ponte knit

Make-shift Journal

2011-07-13T21:53:00.000-07:00

Dear Journal:

You used to be my portfolio, Journal, but now you are somewhat of a thought book. What happened here? I think I got to comfortable in my life, and now my back side aches from sitting down to long. I need to stand up again, stretch my legs, and work. 

But I work eight hours a day!

I'm not working my passion. I work my fingertips till they (literally) bleed from 8 am to 4:30 pm, but after that all my passion rolls around in my head without rising and becoming real. So no more rolling or kneading ideas till they collapse. It's time to make bread, Journal! 

So I drew this today, to get my mind back to where it needs to be:

Black ponte knit with ruffle placket and bell sleeves. yay. More to come.

I'm a one-woman-band, and I play all the instruments.

2011-07-11T19:14:00.000-07:00

When I don't blog for awhile, I get scared to come back and see that nothing is left standing. This is why it makes it that much harder to just sign into my google account and see my followers trickling away, like bricks on that old vacant house. Thankfully, and probably because I am most annoying about my followers, I haven't lost A ONE. yay. You really have no reason to stay with me: this house needs a good paint job.

Work is... how do I put this?... taking over my life, and not in a good way. Steve and Bridgette have become so accustomed to the life that I provide for them, so I can't quit (that and we are trying to save up to a house). But you know what the good part is? My job hasn't taken over my mind at all-- I have "design thoughts" and "business ideas" everyday. What have I been dreaming of lately, you ask? Perhaps a line of children's clothing sold in boutiques. I'm also dreaming of a black dress with bell sleeves and a ruffle placket down the Front. yumm.

It's not like I come home and don't sew or work for myself. That's far from the truth. I sketch, sew, fix old things, but I just don't blog about them.. perhaps I should? This blog really needs to stay alive, right?

RIGHT.

Hello again. How are you?

2011-06-20T21:43:00.000-07:00

I did it! I forced myself for one hour to sew tonight! It's amazing how much time it takes to do simple things in sewing. Instead of starting a whole new project, I decided against abandoning my blouse I started on a million minutes ago and went ahead with it. Tonight I added the ruffle to the neckline, edge-stitched the ruffles on the princess seams, and sewed on the button extensions on CF.

This picture is not very clear at all, but I promise one of me modeling when the sleeves are done. 

It felt great to use my little Bernina again! The machines at work are nice, but not like my little Bernina. It runs so smoothly without noise, the wheel is easy to turn, and as long as I oil it every 8 hours (which could be three times a day for me when I really get sewing-- the math works out), it will last me forever. My mom has had her Bernina over 30 years, and it is still great. I remember going to Dave's Bernina in Provo three years ago with my Mom and she bought my little baby for me. My life changed that day, as cheesy as it sounds. Really, who knew?

i know, i know. but i'm on vacation...

2011-06-15T12:02:00.000-07:00

... and I'm lovin' it. Steve and I (minus Bridgette--shed a tear) are in San Diego for a basic family reunion. Beach, Disneyland, Balboa Park, and, you guessed it, NO SEWING. Or makeup.

But I've made a resolution to start sewing again everyday after work, even if it is just for an hour. I just have to do SOMETHING. I lost a follower so I'm back down below 100. Sad day. But I don't blame her: why follow a blog that only updates once every two weeks? 

Starting Monday, I'm back ladies. I'm back and it's gonna rock. 

Welcome Home BRITT!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

she's got no sense of reality

2011-06-05T12:43:00.000-07:00

My weekends are cherished too highly since I got my job. I can't stand to look at my sewing machine or computer to even blog or check email.  I'm writing this now from my iPhone, far away from the stuffy office.  Yesterday I lay myself by the pool and got a hint of color, made spaghetti and meatballs, and then took a three hour nap. Total bliss. I'm itching to start on a dress to wear on vacation next week in San Diego, so hopefully I can muster up some will power to do so. Please send energetic vibes my way!

Work has been hard. Really hard, and that's all I can really say about it. I this vacation. And this new dress, if I dare sew. 

In the meantime, here are some greats from Oscar de la Renta, THE MAN. all spring 2001. 

This is Vera Wang Spring 2012. Still noteworthy. 

Oh man.

2011-05-25T19:08:00.000-07:00

I am tiiiiired. Work was a beast today. My schedule:

- bead a bodice

- bead a skirt

- make a skirt pattern and fit it on model

- lengthen a bodice on wedding dress and drape pleated organza

Ok, it's a short list, but the last two took about 4 hours each and I'm not even done with the last one yet. When Steve picked me up after work I was like a zombie. A hungry zombie. We went to Five Guys.  

I made the bell-sleeve pattern for my blouse, but no luck on cutting anything out yet. Hopefully by the weekend I'll have something to show ya'll. 

Time for another Oreo.

What's this? I'm sewing for myself? ON A WEEKDAY?

2011-05-23T16:21:00.000-07:00

I got up the energy Saturday night while waiting for SNL to come on, and I started sewing a blouse that has been sitting at my sewing table for the past, well, month or so. It is looking super cute so far, and I love the lightness of the fabric and print together. I'm not totally sure what I'll be doing for sleeves yet, but I am thinking elbow length bell sleeves, like these:

Thank goodness I love sewing things that I've never sewn before, because if I were a Scared Sewer (as I like to call it) I wouldn't have the job I have today. Speaking of my job: I am getting used to the work day, which means I have more energy after work, which means I'll be forcing myself to sew and not sit in front of the TV eating Oreos. Yay for productivity!  Boo for Scared Sewers. 

Speaking of work again: Remember what I posted about my so-called Devil Wear's Prada boss? She has been showing more respect for me and my talent lately, which makes my job that much better. Yay for proving myself!

More tomorrow (as I eat an Oreo).

What I've learned so far

2011-05-15T14:56:00.000-07:00

Oscar de la Renta Spring 2011 Bridal

I've worked in the Bridal Industry for three whole weeks now, and I can't believe how much I learn in just one day. I want to keep a running list of all the tidbits my mind absorbs, like the pin pricks I get in my fingers (my hands get so dry and cracked everyday after work. I lather them up every night and wear manicure gloves to keep them looking youthful). Here is part of that running list:

- Every part of a wedding dress is interfaced: bodice, lining, skirt, EVERYTHING. It is so bizarre. But with heavy satin and taffeta, big heavy skirts, and boning interfacing everything is a must. 

- The wedding industry is changed drastically from what it used to be twenty years ago. Middle class brides no longer spend over $5,000 on a dress. The max is about $3000 average. But even if that price is lower, it doesn't mean that she doesn't want high drama. Dramatic, fashion forward dresses sell now more than ever before (which is great fun for aspiring designers like me :D). 

- The company I work for (which I will never say on here-- if you want to know, email me) is the only lower-end bridal company that actually does model fittings and revisions on designs once the dresses are made in the factory. Every other company (David's Bridal, for example) chooses dresses based on pictures (not from a live fitting) through a committee. No revisions are ever made on fit or construction, which is insane to me. With all the technique and work that goes into a wedding dress, it better have an amazing fit, for which my company is so well known and respected by brides. This also means that other companies have no seamstresses or pattern makers (like me) that work in the US. All is done in China, which means so much control is lost over quality. 

- The hundreds of wedding dresses that are made every season by bridal fashion companies are designed only by about 4 or 5 designers total. In my company, we only have 4 designers that design about 200 dresses EVERY SEASON and then about 400 are put into production. How do these people create 200 dresses every season????

- the "Devil Wears Prada" boss and employee relationship in fashion is REAL, even in lower-end fashion. 

The greatest thing I've learned so far these three weeks:

i love working in fashion. It is my true calling. I'm glad I'm able to see that now when my career is just beginning, because to work my whole life in an area I hate would suck. I'm glad I changed my major so many years ago to sewing at BYU from English. I've often regretted that decision when I was working at home for a year making pennies, but now I see the true value in my education. It brought me this job, and this job is my foot in the door. 

I'm still here.

2011-05-07T20:25:00.000-07:00

I am alive and well-- just a little tired everyday. I am getting used to my full-time job in terms of time and energy needs. This is the first full-time job I have ever had in my life, and even though I love it and would detest going back to sewing at home right now, I'm exhausted when I come home from work and keep even comprehend  sewing for myself. I know that needs to change if this blog is going to survive (which HAS TO HAPPEN-- my future depends on it), it is just going to take a little time for me to adjust to my new life. I hope you can all adjust with me. 

So for today's post (or, more like "this week's post), I wanted to answer a question that I got a few weeks back about the pattern making textbook I use and have learned with for the past three years:

Buy it here: Pattern Making for Fashion Design

The book is expensive (about $100) but totally worth it. You can pattern draft anything you want with this book. I highly recommend it. I only have the third edition, so if you buy the latest one you'll have one-up on me. 

***********************

About my job. I've posted these videos before, but this is sort-of what it's like at my work all day, but no awesome white work coat. I am sooo lucky to have this experience to learn from (not to mention the great cash-flow.. hello Coach purse!).

Parts 1-4 all on YouTube. Search "Signe Chanel"

This is a great story

2011-04-30T19:06:00.000-07:00

Yes. That is me with TIM GUNN oozing my way into his affections! You're eyes aren't failing you! I'm also wearing my "suit" that I made: pencil skirt, poofy blouse, and ponte knit black blazer to show off my skills at this preliminary audition for Project Runway-- that's how I thought of it at least. 

More on that later. Let's start at the beginning. 

About two months ago Steve and I saw signs in the Gateway Mall parking structure that Tim Gunn was going to be at the Lucky Store, April 30th. SO excited. I knew I had to go, which is actually the whole reason I made this suit in the first place (I never mentioned that in order to build the surprise!) Then I got my new full time job as a pattern maker, and low and behold the first Saturday that I have at my new job I have to work-- that day being today. I was so worried I wouldn't be able to get home in time to change into my suit to meet Tim Gunn. And I wasn't about the to just wear any old thing that I didn't make. Totally pointless. I knew I had to "make it work". 

With the help of the heavens, I was on my way home at 2:20 pm this afternoon. Tim Gunn started signing his new book at 1 pm-- did I even have a chance? I called The Lucky Store to see how much longer he had, and the nice girl on the phone mumbled "no idea". Great. Steve and I took our chances as I quickly pulled my blouse out of the dirty clothes basket, gave it a quick ironing, and bolted out the door with sketchbook in hand for Tim to sign. Steve dropped me off right in front of the store where there was a big line still forming, so I knew I would get my chance! Tim was still there and I was inside the red ropes! 

As I waited in line totally anxious, I saw that everyone had a Lucky shopping bag. I asked the lady in front of me:

"Do we have to buy something to meet Tim?"

"Yes. You have to spend $100 in the store before you meet him."

"ONE HUNDRED DOLLARS?"

"Yes, I debated with my teenage daughter for two hours if we really wanted to do this, but we said 'why not?'"

She looked at my sketchbook.

"You brought your drawings for him to see, didn't you?"

Sheepishly.."yes.."

"You go in there and spend that $100 dollars. It will be worth it."

Now, Lucky Brand Jeans is a great store and I have nothing against them, but the hippy-dippy flopsy-mopsy look has never worked for me or my taste, so I grabbed the first pair of men's jeans that I saw ($140) and bought them for Steve. 

I plan on returning them. tee hee. 

I got back in line, where Steve met me. He checked my teeth for junk and my breath. It was my turn, I shook Tim's hand, and the first thing I said to him was, "I made my WHOLE OUTFIT!" like a big dork. The great thing about Tim Gunn is that he is truly sincere and at least pretends to be interested in everything you are saying. He looks you in the eyes with those big blues of his and you feel like best friends. He asked me to turn around for him, and he said that the construction on my jacket was "wonderful" and he loved the roses on my skirt and how they were isolated in the corner, not too much but "just enough". I told him I just got a job as a pattern maker for a bridal company in Salt Lake. Then I ordered the girl who was working the line to take candids of me and Tim. I felt on top of the world after he gave me my copy of the book he had just signed and said:

"I am very impressed with you."

I felt amazing! Truly amazing! He took a picture with me and then asked if Steve wanted to get in the next one, and then I said, "no. just me", but Steve got in anyway just to bug me. I didn't want his horrid rain jacket to ruin the photo. I was trying to impress Tim Gunn for crying out loud. I completely forgot to mention my sketchbook though. I was just holding it like a weirdo the entire time. Oh well. He was only allowed to sign the books anyway.

Such a wonderful day. I then bought a sweater at Ann Taylor Loft for 40% off just to top my sundae with a cherry. 

I'm a little exhausted.

2011-04-26T05:00:00.000-07:00

I started my first full-time job yesterday, and I am exhausted but totally excited for tomorrow. I feel like a legit seamstress at my work, and as a legit seamstress, I need a great black blazer. 

A black blazer made out of black ponte knit, my most favorite fabric. Doesn't it look great? I used the pattern from my first blazer, but took in the side seams a bit to account for stretch in the fabric. 

I'm making a weirdo face because Steve was making me laugh. But I did have a great hair day for my first day at work! This isn't the exact outfit I wore to work because when I got home I threw on my pajamas and turned on TLC's Royal Wedding Week special-- I suppose this is what happens with a full time job. 

It had to be done.

2011-04-25T00:02:00.000-07:00

I was sewing all weekend. i woke up on Saturday morning full of energy and ready to continue the work I had started the night before-- work on yet another PD. I know, I know. 

"Another PD, Ellen?" 

It just had to be done. 

I actually had cut out an A-line shift to be made out of this great maroon ponte knit, but when I tried it on after I had serged it all up, it just wasn't working for me. So I decided to do another PD (my 4th) just so I could have another more causal one to wear shopping, on a date, or to....work. 

That's right. I got a full time job as a pattern maker at an internationally known wedding dress company based in Salt Lake-- a total dream! The job is temporary (they only need me for about a month), but I'm going to work my butt off to try and get a position as a Design Assistant. I'll still be blogging and sewing on my own for sure (I'll need more work clothes!) and I'm still gong to try to do every week day like I have been doing...or trying to do :D

I also figured out what to do with underlining knits in order to bead-- simple fusible or sew-in tricot knit interfacing is the best (go figure- I don't know why I thought I could figure it out differently). I also used a facing for the yoke I made as well, and then I hand-beaded the flower detail to the black yoke. At least I did something different with this PD, and I love it. 

And yes, I cut my hair. We are full of changes today. 

Tomorrow I'll be showing yet another work piece that I made this weekend. It was a busy two days.

Still no luck

2011-04-20T09:03:00.000-07:00

I think the problem is the organza. Even though it is cut on bias, it still won't stretch like the knit does. I think I'm going to have to underline with a Tricot knit (which is typically used to line and underline knits), and then also have a facing for the yoke detail to hold up the beading. I got rid of the back yoke all together, so I'll just have beading on the front of the shirt. Yay for experimenting!

I could sing it from the rooftops... I HAVE 100 FOLLOWERS!

2011-04-19T09:29:00.000-07:00

Celebrations aside, I have to get back to work. But it is fun work! 

Yesterday I started working on a new knit shirt that would have beaded embellishments on the neckline. I really wanted to experiment a lot with this project to learn new techniques and decipher which ones are the best, what works and what doesn't. 

Since I knew the neckline would be beaded eventually, and that I would be embellishing on a knit, the neckline would have to be interfaced or underlined with something to hold up the weight of the beading. I thought I'd experiment with the underlining by using organza cut on the bias. 

I basted the organza to my knit (not perfeclty, but clsoe enough) and then sewed the shirt together like it was all one piece. 

I don't know if I like it though... The organza underlining is fine, but I don't like how it is put together. I think I'll start over on it today with a new technique. What I sometimes hate about "home-made" projects is that they don't look pretty on the inside, and I want that level of professionalism. This does NOT look so good on the inside, so back to the drawing board!

I think I need a new camera...or a photography lesson (and a clean mirror).

2011-04-15T12:40:00.000-07:00

Spring has finally sprung in Utah (unless another snow storm pops in...eesh), and after slaving away on my gorgeous jacket that I adore beyond any project I have ever done, I decided on something easy as a bridge to my next project (I'm thinking another jacket... a black one). I got out my old pencil skirt pattern and adapted it to a simple A-line skirt. I love the print on the cotton fabric... almost Moroccan. It only took me a bout six hours total to make! I love these easy in-between projects. They help inspire for the next one and give me a break from the last.

I won't think about that now. I'll think about it tomorrow.

2011-04-14T18:28:00.000-07:00

I wanted to wait to blog until Steve came home today so I could get some decent photos of my jacket to show all of you!!! It came out super well and I think it is pretty darn amazing and sexy for my first pattern making experiment in a jacket! The cut is perfect for me, and I'm glad I went with rounded edges on the front-- more flattering on me than just normal straight edges> I can see why so many people love doing outerwear for these reasons: 

1. It takes a lot of tailoring for outerwear, but it's not tailoring a dress. Looser clothing like jackets and coats are always easier to tailor to someone's body than a dress or shirt. 

2. There are a lot of fun techniques that go into outerwear, like shaping the collar, advanced seaming, and a lot of fine hand stitching in the lining, to name a few. 

3. Outerwear is very rewarding and creative. I feel like there are so many more design options to outerwear than just sleeves, hem length, etc. Closures, trims, ruffle or no ruffle...the possibilities are endless. 

I added some lace trim to the seam line of the collar. I think it adds some good SHAZAM. I originally was planning on a nice ruffle (of course) but Steve said it looked "tacked on" and not really a part of the jacket.

These hook and eye closure were a beast to do, and took me about 5 hours so sew them all in. I was planning on just sewing them on the facing, but it looked messy. So I opened up the lining, made openings in the seam to put the hooks and eyes into, and then hand stitched the openings shut around them. The top two closures are farther apart than the bottom two closures (my bad), but I knew I would never really use the last closure, so it wasn't a big deal. Nor did I want to keep sewing these suckers in after 5 hours.

I'll be making another jacket very soon. I've caught the jacket bug.

Making Mistakes

2011-04-12T08:31:00.000-07:00

When I was still in school and taking my favorite sewing classes, I was usually the one in the class that was ahead of everyone else; not because I was any better (hardly), but because I am a fast sewer, and fast sewers usually don't stop and think about what they are doing and ask a million questions a few steps in advance in order to always be prepared for the next 20 steps. I'm sure I annoyed Dr. Burnham to no end on some days, but by the time I graduated she did tell me I was a joy to teach because I was adventurous in my sewing. I was fearless. 

Yesterday I was thinking about what I was doing with some trepidation because I had no teacher for answers to my questions. Making my fist jacket pattern will inevitably be only a test run for the next jacket, and the next, and the next. There are definitely a few kinks to work out. But that is just what sewing clothing is-- it's all an experiment for the next project. Designers don't have just ONE end-all-be-all collection-- sewing and design is a living, growing creature of mistakes, triumphs, and overall learning. Sometimes I get really frustrated with the fact that I'll never really be finished. Sometimes it excites me. It has been a hard pill to swallow for sure.

I'd like to point out today a few mistakes I made so far on my jacket so I know what to do for next time:

My collar turned out kind of weird. I messed up where the collar should end and the seam allowance on Center Front should begin. I'll be fixing this for next time, for sure. But right now, it may look kind of cool- i'm still deciding.

I chose this lining for my jacket solely because of the print, and wasn't really thinking about how see-through it is. Now when I take off my jacket, the world will be able to see all the clipped seams and interfacing! Wonderful! Lesson learned: don't use chiffon for jacket lining. It's just weird (but houndstooth and leopard = genius).

I hope this sunshine lasts.

2011-04-11T07:58:00.000-07:00

my jacket is really coming along! After I finished fitting the Muslin mock-up and figured out the collar, I cut it out with the fashion fabric, a jacquard weave leopard print. The fabric is very voluminous in the way it behaves-- I really have to press it well to get a good seam and shape. The collar looks great as well, and I'm happy with the design I chose (for the most part-- I think I'm going to make the front hem have more rounded corners). I interfaced the back, hem and front pieces with regular fusible interfacing. I want this to be a light jacket, so fusible tricot interfacing will definitely suffice for this project. Next, I have to make the facing and lining patterns. 

You should always interface the upper back of jackets. It's just better quality and helps the jacket last longer and keep it's shape. 

Big Day

2011-04-08T08:33:00.000-07:00

I can't believe it. I really can't. I never thought until yesterday that I could make a jacket pattern myself. But I did! I've read that chapter in my pattern-making textbook multiple times, and I never really understood how simple it really was adopting a bodice pattern to a jacket pattern-- but it is! I am a jacket pattern virgin no more! It really is all about adding some width to the side seams, lowering the arm-scye, and opening the neck line up a bit. After that, it's all about design choices. 

Pictured above is the muslin mock-up I made of the jacket I am planning. It fits really good, but I am still deciding on what to do for the neckline and collar. I know I want a simple standing collar to go down the neck opening and "vanish" once it hits Center Front. My CF opening will be fastened with larger hook and eye closures-- no overlap of any kind. And elbow length sleeves because I hate long sleeves. 

I am really really proud of myself. This is just another step in becoming a great sewer! I feel like after this jacket is done, I'll make a wool coat from my own pattern, and then wedding dress/ evening gown, and then pants. I love this new-found ambition!

High Style Prairie

2011-04-07T08:36:00.000-07:00

This blouse is the best... best fit, best style, love the collar, love the sleeves, love the print. Happy day all the around. If a tornado comes through Salt Lake today (did you hear that wind last night??), I'll be ready with my couture Dorothy blouse.

I love the buttons. They are little black clovers! Found them at Joanne's.

Gingham Heaven

2011-04-06T08:22:00.000-07:00

I sewed my petal sleeves onto my blouse yesterday, and they are perrrrfffeecccttt. I love them. I've defined them in my head as a "modified cap sleeve", in that they give the coverage of a full sleeve but look more like a cap sleeve. Perfect perfect perfect. I also sewed on the collar and I decided to do just a plain mandarin standing collar instead of ruffles. I thought the print and the sleeve details would be enough for this blouse (oh, and the gold buttons I'm going to use).

darn blogger won't turn my photo the right way!

I'm sorry, but I like my blouse! and the puffy sleeves!!!

2011-04-05T09:41:00.000-07:00

It was hard getting a good shot of this blouse using a mirror, but I hope it comes across. I love my blouse. I think the sleeves are very different and haute couture. Plus the blouse fits the girls like a glove, so no complaining there. Good blouse all around.

Matching Plaid Hell

2011-04-04T10:49:00.000-07:00

Last Friday I went to Joanne's to scope out some cheap but fun fabric to make yet another blouse before I start on my suit jacket, and I happened across this great cotton black and white 1" gingham that is thicker than usual cotton material for shirts and with more structure, which I love and gravitate toward all the time. It reminds me of something out out Kate Spade, who happens to be one of my favorite designers, so I got my 40% coupon out and bought as much as I could-- only 1 3/8 yards were left on the bolt. I was hoping it would be enough to make a blouse with short sleeves, and it was! That was until I made up on sleeve (normal, everyday flat sleeve) and hated it. I'm going to scope out the rest of the Slat Lake City Joanne's to find more of this gingham today so I can possibly make some great petal sleeves, which you all haven't seen in awhile now... Don't know what I am going to do for the collar yet. 

Matching plaids, gingham's, or stripes is necessary for a good-looking article of clothing, but is a pain in the butt to do. Before you even cut out, the lines and squares have to match up to cute out two even and balanced pieces at one time. I like to pin through both layers of fabric so that all the lines match up and don't shift as I pin on the pattern pieces. 

Now to cut out pieces so that the seams will continue the straight line print of the fabric, it is best to lay out pieces that will be sewn together next to one another, with the notches matching. This is especially important for princess pattern pieces-- you want those notches at the chest to line up so that the princess seam does not interfere with the print. 

I started to sew the Center Back seam of my blouse to make sure that the seam was on grain and following the print. The first time around I got this (no bueno):

The print is only slightly off, but those little details make a big difference in the finished product, especially when it is on a straight seam like Center Back or Center Front.

The hardest part about matching stripes or plaids is working with the curved seams. No these seams aren't perfect on the back of my blouse, but it is pretty good with curvature. The print is hardly interrupted, and the fact that the CB is so good, the interruption is less noticeable for the other seams. For the first real plaid I've ever worked with, I'm pretty proud of myself. 

I think petal sleeves is going to look great on this blouse, and I hope more people like it than my puffy-sleeved blouse :/

beyond sweatpants. And an un-made bed.

2011-04-01T08:40:00.000-07:00

I have one sleeve left to do on my blouse! I ran out of fabric from all my different mock-ups of this blouse since I was dumb and didn't use Muslin first, so I had to run by Yellow Bird Fabrics yesterday to get more for the last sleeve. I adopted the sleeve from my snake dress, which is also where I adopted the rest of the shirt from, but made them shorter. Are the sleeves to puffy? I can't tell really. When I look down on the one sleeve as I turn my head to the right, it looks really poofy from my angle, like pioneer poofy. But from the front, I can't tell. It's not like I'll re-do this shirt if they are (hell's-bells no), but I will fix it for the next blouse (and yes, there will be a next blouse!)

Sewing on the buttons was just as bad as sewing the buttonholes. I kept having to re-do five at a time because I was making the front all skee-wampus and not line up correctly with my ill-placed buttons. I did get it right, after about 3 hours. 

Buttonholes....eesh

2011-03-31T08:53:00.000-07:00

Yet another reason why I hardly ever make button-up blouses (or anything button-up for that matter), is because I hate making buttonholes. It is SO HARD and takes a lot of patience and nit-picky techniques to get a good row of straight, evenly placed, balanced buttonholes. And yesterday's buttonholes were no different....even though my blouse now has the best row of buttonholes I have ever made-- a silver lining.

It all starts with placement and size of the buttonholes. I think all women agree with me that the gaping open blouse from a left-side view is the worse thing that happens when it comes to blouses. I hate it so much, that I decided to add twice as many buttons to make sure the girls are out of view and in place, which I think more blouses should consider in the production process. I also decided on 3/8" buttons, which means 1/2" buttonholes. Each pin represents the top of a new buttonhole in the picture below. 

After about doing six buttonholes, I realized that I was still making the buttonholes too small. This is another reason why I hate this process: the Bernina buttonhole foot isn't the clearest of feet. When you think you've measured out a 1/2" on the foot measure, it's really more like 3/8" when the hole is opened (which is precisely what I did). Thank goodness I was smart and didn't open the holes until I was completely sure I had it right, because making new buttonholes on holes that are already made and cut out is near impossible. So I picked out all the darn stitching and made all new buttonholes that were extremely straight and even, mind you. A pat on the back.

While opening the holes with my super-sharp embroidery scissors and thread picker, I cute myself, leaving traces of blood all over the blouse. I then proceeded to wash the blouse to get the blood out, and thank the heavens it is 100% cotton and that Spray and Wash works the best on cotton, or else I would have a ruined shirt with traces of my DNA all down the front. But by buttonholes really are very good!

Oh, and I used the fray check on the stitching of the buttonholes after I opened them so that the threads don't come out over time. Good tip.

I sew even when I have to make a blouse three times for it turn out well.

2011-03-30T08:55:00.000-07:00

My title is right. I have now made my shirt three times so far, but I think I have finally hit the nail on the head, and I now also have a pattern that is perfect for all future blouses. The first blouse you saw, and it was a total fail. The second blouse I made was from my snake dress pattern, but I had a few issues with the chest:

Because I am not a B cup, easing the princess seams together on the chest was a bit difficult, and it came out looking like gathers-- not very flattering for a larger cup size, AND remember how I said last time you need to add 7" to a bodice pattern to make a shirt? Make that 9". So I scrapped the whole shirt and started again. I wonder why I didn't use muslin first??? *slaps head*

The easing on the next try went a lot better after I fixed the pattern. I had to make the cup size for the shirt smaller than usual-- that may be wrong, but it was the only way it was going to fit properly! Sometimes I just have to break the rules. And it does fit very well. 

I used flat-felled seams for the seam finishes, which makes it look uber-professional and not home-made. It took a ton of time to do, but it was well worth it.  I am extremely proud of my hem, by the way. The last time I did a clean finish hem like this was when I made my husband a dress shirt in one of my sewing classes, and I accidentally hemmed it to the outside of the shirt instead of the inside-- I have learned a few things about paying attention and being focused since that class. 

Tomorrow I'll have the neckline done (still debating on what I'm going to do for that-- to ruffle or not to ruffle?) and hopefully the sleeves.

Making a shirt pattern from a bodice pattern

2011-03-28T10:47:00.000-07:00

I've decided to make my suit blouse with princess seams, so that if I need to alter it, it would be far easier than using a basic two dart pattern. I used my unfinished snake dress bodice to make the shirt, without the neckline yoke for the dress. To make a shirt out of a bodice pattern, you simply add 9" in length to the waistline seam of the bodice, making sure you add enough width to fit the abdomen.

Thoughts are like Wrinkles

2011-03-25T10:26:00.000-07:00

Until about 11 last night I was working on my suit blouse, but to no avail. I hate it. I don't know what I was thinking using this pattern again and making this shirt. It's awful, and the sleeves I made are also too small. So it is back to the drawing board. 

I do love the fabric I bought for the shirt, however. It is an Italian cotton with a textured weave and it is gorgeous. I think what I am going to make is this shirt I found at Anthropologie with my cotton, no collar, button front, but shorter sleeves. Simple, and to my taste:

On to pattern making, but first, MADSTA: I added two more roses. Your comments were spot on! The detail roses are much more balanced and less "random"!

Ignore the shirt-- I didn't make it.

2011-03-24T12:16:00.000-07:00

My skirt is done and I LOOOVVVEEE it. I love the lining, I love the flowers (I didn't add more), and I love the cut and length of the skirt. It is perfect for a complete suit, don't you think? The lining is the same stretch charmeuse from Whitney's yellow skirt-- I bought about ten yards of it so I could use it more! And no, I am not wearing any makeup nor did I have a shower in the following photos.

A sewing tip:

When cutting out your waistband facings for skirts, cut the waist edge and bottom edge of the facing 1/8" more, so that when you favor the edges of the waistline seam, the facing won't run wider than the waistband, making it easier to finish the edges and secure the lining to the skirt. This will also stop waistbands and yokes bubbling from a facing that is too wide.

Details, part deux

2011-03-23T10:27:00.000-07:00

I decided to nix the wave pattern that i was planning on yesterday, and opted for roses. I was sure it would turn out much better than the waves, and much easier to hem with the hem facing that I like to use on my skirts. The hemming was tricky where the roses lay on the bottom of the skirt, but it was still doable. I do think I need more roses, because when I wear it, you can hardly see the rose detail from the front. So more roses it is! I hope I can finish this skirt tomorrow. I still need to line it. 

I finished the edges of my roses by serging an overlock stitch before top stitching the roses on the skirt. This stitch I've been using recently on this organza fabric- it makes it look really professional and more "done" than just leaving the edges raw. 

PS: I had to do the zipper twice-- I was stitching too close to the zipper teeth on the first try. 

Details

2011-03-22T12:51:00.000-07:00

Started work on my suit skirt today, and I'm using the pencil skirt pattern I have made before, which is perfect, but I've decided to take it a step further by adding a ruffle detail at the hem. What I have so far is only the beginning, and I'm thinking of doing a wave pattern on the entire circumference of the hem. Me like, but I hope my patience can last for this entire ruffle!

The whole nine yards (what does that saying even mean? Steve thinks it means a nine-yard suit, so that's why I'm using it)

2011-03-21T10:07:00.000-07:00

I decided over the weekend that I am going to do what I haven't done before (checking things off that list), and I am going to make my version of a three piece suit. When I toured the Anne Klein offices in NYC three years ago with my sewing class, we talked a lot about the importance of a well made suit for women, and how suits are somewhat going down hill now that America has decided that pajamas are ok to wear to work. I generally don't like suits on women at all, unless it is a skirt suit with a mis-matched jacket and a frilly white blouse underneath... which is exactly what I am going to make. Certainly not pajamas. 

I planned it all out on Saturday. I went to Yellow Bird for NEW (!!!) fabric since I have nothing (Insert Steve's eye-rolls here) that works. 

I bought a cotton/lycra in a black-navy-gray sort of color that I adore, which is perfect for a skirt since it is stretchy. I also bought an Italian shirting that has a texture to it to create interest in the shirt (since frills aren't enough for me, apparently). The fabric I did have that I've been dying to use is my leopard jacquard, which will be used as the jacket. Don't the colors go SO WELL together!!!???

The skirt is going to be kind of like this. 

The blouse is going to be kind of like this.

And the jacket is kind of like this.

the photos of my family.

2011-03-17T10:10:00.000-07:00

Here they are. I have to say that Bridgette puts Steve and Me to serious shame with her cuteness. Steve and I are tempted to just print out pictures of her and put her all over our apartment. She makes my heart explode with pride! She is my baby and I am her MAMA!

This group photo is my true favorite.

Blah.

2011-03-15T11:59:00.000-07:00

I am feeling very uninspired today. Can't think of one thing to sew. I've browsed all of the NYTimes Runway slide shows, but nothing is hitting me. I've even looked through Kate Spade (my go-to for inspiration), but to no avail. I feel like I don't have the right fabric for anything that looks remotely good. I need a trip to Yellow Bird. Or to Mood.

Where's your jet-pack, Zuckerberg?

2011-03-11T10:14:00.000-08:00

I couldn't resist. Yesterday, after finishing Whitney's denim skirt, I made an Identical one for myself. It took me about 3 hours (only because I had JUST finished one and knew exactly what I needed to do = no trial and error). I love it love it love it. It is perfect summer and it is just a PERFECT SKIRT!

Here is a great tip when sewing bulky fabrics, like denim or wool: When sewing a perpendicular seam on top of two already existing seams, like at the side seam hem or waistband hem, clip into the seam allowances before you sew at the 5/8" mark, so that when you press the seams out, you wont have huge bulging seams that are impossible to iron and make flat. I learned this trick in my tailoring class for jacket hems, but I think it can be used in all sorts of sewing situations. And, of course, always trim and grade seam allowances that sit on top of each other. It may take a little time, but it is well worth it!

PS: my zipper for this skirt went off without a hitch. My technique is truly flawless (the invisible zipper foot also helps)!

PSS: Here is a sneak-peak to my family photos. Bridgette's are my favorite.

Another Day, Another Hem.

2011-03-09T11:29:00.000-08:00

I sewed the hem today for Whitney's skirt. The hem on a denim skirt or jacket or jeans is very important. It has to be wide enough and heavy enough to keep the edges from turning up, especially after several washes. I think we've all seen this happen on little girls' denim skirts that are of a lesser quality. The best hem I could come up with was the same hem facing technique I used on Whitney's yellow skirt. It is just a go-to hem. 

I am very tempted to keep this skirt for myself! I'll just have to make a second one!

Two-fer

2011-03-08T11:41:00.000-08:00

I sewed up Whitney's skirt today, and I tried it on (just curious), and it is SO FLATTERING. I think I'll be making a pencil denim skirt for myself here!

After doing a little research, I've decided to just put in an invisible zipper for this skirt. It seems that for a pencil skirt without a CF opening (like jeans), invisible is really the only way to go. This better work...

About Yesterday....

2011-03-08T09:36:00.000-08:00

Steve rarely ever reads my blog, and whenever he does, he always finds something wrong with it. Like, I spelled a word wrong, the pictures don't look very good, or I used the wrong word. This time, it was the latter. 

Remember yesterday's post? Called "Onward, Sewers"? Steve ran into the living room as I was watching the Bachelor last night, yelling in a semi mocking tone: "Ellen! You used the word SEWERS instead of just seamstresses! It doesn't mean both things!" He meant "sewer" as in a gross, nasty sewer that is meant to be left in Batman comics and Les Miserables. 

I suddenly got a very confused look on my face.... did "sewer" really not mean someone who sewed? "I never thought of that...".

During a commercial, I looked it up in my handy dandy iphone dictionary, and "sewer" both means "a person who sews", like me, and "the infrastructure that conveys sewage".

SO, rest well my followers. The college education I claim to have still stands strong, even with my husband reading over my shoulder, trying to get me to not make a fool of myself on this blog as I have done so many times before.

But just to be sure, did anyone else think I meant what Steve thought I meant?

Onward, Sewers.

2011-03-07T09:32:00.000-08:00

Today I am making a second skirt for Whitney, the same style as her yellow one, but this time made out of comfy, casual stretch denim. I love making things that I already have a pattern for that I know fits perfectly!

I bought the fabric last summer in the LA fashion district. I bought about 30 yards of it for $60... a total steal. It has a great dark color and oodles of stretch. Yay that I'm finally using it! And yay that I don't have to buy new fabric! I have to do some research on what kind of zipper to use with denim-- I think that the fabric would be too bulky for a dinky invisible zipper. More on that tomorrow.... (pray that I don't have zipper drama!)

Everything You Ever Needed to Know

2011-03-04T13:19:00.000-08:00

This is my new favorite blog: enchanted serenity of period films

It tells you everything and everyone about new period films that are coming up on BBC, A&E, in theaters, and every other publishing practice. I love it. It also has a lot of interviews from costume designers like Jenny Beaven (she won an Oscar for the costumes in Sense and Sensibility, and I also wrote a research paper about her in college :D) and others. Please take a gander if you are movie buff, or period movie buff, like myself.

By they way, I just read Tess of the d'Ubervilles in two days and I highly recommend it. Also buy the latest movie on iTunes for 6 and 99 cents. I watched it twice through.

Funny story: when we went to get our photos taken, the photographer asked me if I studied the Regency or Victorian era in school, and Steve chimed in with: "'Study' meaning she watches a lot of Jane Austen movies". pfft.

She captured my Vision.

2011-03-03T09:31:00.000-08:00

Steve, Bridgette, and I got our family photos taken yesterday, and as far as I could tell by her digital camera image window, the woman who took them got it exactly right. EXACTLY. 

I wanted our family photos to be neo-Victorian (when I told the rest of my family this, all they could do was laugh and say, "Well, of course"). Neo-Victorian meaning like these photos below, but modern:

This is obviously a picture from a Romantic Period movie, but still in the 19th century. All you costume girls at BYU who read my blog will be happy I made the distinction :)

The Mates of State album cover is what originally inspired me. They are also one of favorite bands. They can do no wrong. 

So the Family and I got all dolled up last night for our big photo shoot. These photos would be the first family photos we've taken since our engagement photos back in 2008. It was definitely time. Bridgette got some great shots! I am SO EXCITED to show all of you the photos we get when they are done next week! But for a sneak peak, check out my fab-o neo-Victorian hairstyle that my friend Clarissa did! I didn't want to take my hair out afterward. I'm tempted to ask her to do my hair everyday. 

Sorry my blog has been so non-sewing lately. I have so many jobs right now for Poor Man's Wife, and once I am done with those I'll get back to sewing regularly!

My sister, the Ham.

2011-02-28T09:40:00.000-08:00

I made this dress for someone else, but it didn't fit her. Boo me. But Yay for Anna, my sister, who fit in it precisely. She got a free dress last night during our Oscar's party, hence the faces of pure delight. Did you think Anne Hathaway was a big ham last night as she hosted the Oscars? Well, you haven't met Anna.

Have I been here before?

2011-02-25T07:50:00.000-08:00

I found this really great video about hand beading from a costume shop in New York that made the costumes for Wicked, and I actually think I visited and toured this costume shop when I went to New York with my sewing class.... but I can't remember exactly. It LOOKS like the shop. The tables and windows look familiar. And I'm pretty sure they said in the tour that they did the costumes for Wicked when I was there. I also used their bathroom, which was really nice. I also had eyelids the size of strawberries due to a severe sinus infection that whole week. But discussing the Wicked costumes is what I really remember. 

Bear with me

2011-02-23T07:45:00.000-08:00

My sewing machine is currently being used as a bouquet holder as I work on Poor Man's Wife orders. Hello money in my savings account!

Fabric bouquets are better than fresh flower bouquets because they never die. A forever keepsake!

I may have gone bird crazy, but the bride LOVES the idea of birds in her bouquet. So there.

Put a Bird on It!

2011-02-18T12:16:00.000-08:00

Business first, fun after. 

I dropped off Whitney's finished yellow skirt today and it just looks great on her! She was so excited to have a nice skirt to wear to weddings, out to dinner, and to church that fit her right! Yay for handmade clothing that is worth every penny. And the contrasting lining is just precious. She is having me make a second one out of stretch denim for more casual outings as well. Remember the shirt I made her? Now she has an entire Ellen Outfit!

My skirts cost $100 including all materials, no matter the style.

-------------

Now for fun. The other day I felt so white trash for having my Christmas wreath still up, that I decided to make another one, finally. I went to Joanne's and bought a twig wreath for $4 and little birds and bird's nests to make my wreath springy. As you know, I have a thing for birds. I actually think I am obsessed. My sister an I will buy anything if it has a bird on it, especially for our home decor.

THAT SAME DAY, on Conan, Fred Armisen was on talking about his show Portlandia which makes fun of the Granola's and trend-setters in Portland, I guess. THIS IS THE CLIP THEY DECIDED TO SHOW, and my husband and I couldn't breathe from our simultaneous laughter:

My new journey begins.

2011-02-16T10:17:00.000-08:00

Yesterday I started on my first non-PD dress with my new adventurous sewing spirit! I am using the base pattern of the PD to work with this knit dress, but I am modifying it a lot so it doesn't look like it came out of the Gap. I'm sewing my first wrap-around top and petal skirt! The top is a little low, so I may be scrapping the whole thing and cutting a newer modest one. I tried adding scallops to the neckline to make it higher, but it just looks dumb and "home made" (a home sewer's worst night mare). Tomorrow I'll hopefully have pictures of me actually wearing the dress. I'm SO excited for the skirt, because in the front opening that the two petals make, will be some great floral print chiffon that will peek out the hem of the skirt. I've never done anything like this, and I like it so far! Yay for adventurous spirit!

The skirt laid out. I added some deep diagonal pleats at the waist. The back of the skirt will just be flat so my ba-donka-donka doesn't look any more "ba-donk".

The scallops have to go!

Stagnant

2011-02-15T08:50:00.000-08:00

I feel like my life has been stagnant for three years-- since Steve and I got married. Sure I graduated college, and we got Bridgette, but nothing has really happened to us for three years that has required a lot of change. It was nice to live this way for so long, with no real responsibilities besides paying the rent and saving money every paycheck. We've lived for ourselves and we really enjoyed it. All of the sudden on Sunday we realized we couldn't live this way anymore. We were once care-free birds, but a moment later we were planning Graduate School for Steve, buying a new car, perhaps having children in the next year. In 24 hours our lives changed completely, and I realized last night as the Bachelor was muted on TV and I was sketching, that I could no longer keep making PDs every week. PDs are stagnant, and it's true when they say our lives are reflected in our art. I was getting lazy. I enjoyed not having to make a new pattern for a new outfit all the time, but that won't help me grow up at all. If I ever want to be on Project Runway, or own my own clothing line, I have to step up and take chances, learn from my mistakes. As Steve and I join the growing up process again, so will my art. And it will all be displayed here, in my digital escape from the day to day.

Things I want to try:

Making a coat/jacket pattern.

Experimenting more with knits and lighter weight fabrics.

Making tops like I used to!

3 dimensional designs.

A suit.

Was there a time where you realized you could no longer be stagnant in art, work, or everyday life?

Another day, another stupid zipper.

2011-02-10T13:11:00.000-08:00

I finished Whitney's skirt this morning without a hitch. It looks awesome. Pics will come when I deliver it. 

After that, I started working on replacing the zipper on my latest PD after three messed up zippers were in. This one, the FOURTH ZIPPER, also failed. A zipper fail is so frustrating. 

I did everything for this zipper that I explained yesterday with me new-found techniques. They are great, but I still couldn't zip it up at my waist. I thought that maybe the threads that I basted it with were overlapping into the zipper teeth, making it not zip up. It was hard to unpick because I couldn't see anything (black thread on black fabric is always impossible to see) and I think I messed up the teeth, and when I tried to zip up, the zipper head just came off. GREAT. Another $3 will be spent on yet ANOTHER zipper. blah blah blah. story of my life. 

Pictured is how I followed the technique I explained yesterday. The waist seam line was already serged together, so I clipped the seam allowance about 1" to the zipper, and spread it open so that the seam wouldn't be too bulk. Clipping the seam allowance isn't advisable, but it's all I could do without taking out all the serging I had already done. I hope my dreams come true and this dress is worn someday. That'll be the day... 

The thing with zippers...

2011-02-09T09:56:00.000-08:00

I finished Whitney's skirt zipper yesterday, and I'm so excited to tell you that I learned a technique doing invisible zippers over a seam line (which I have had trouble before). 

The picture above is the inside view of an invisible zipper already sewn in. The first thing I did was sew up one side the invisible zipper, keeping the seam allowances OPEN where the zipper hits. This will make it less bulky and easier to zip up when on (and i think this may be the problem I had before-- I was sewing the zipper in with the seam allowances together, facing down. Not good). Now, a lot of you may know, if you have sewn in an IZ (invisible zipper) before, is that it is a beast trying to get the seam lines to match perfectly on the outside of the garment, and I had to unpick this bugger three times until I figured out what to do! When you sew up the second side of the zipper, put a pencil mark on the tape where the seam line should be (as shown), and then baste the zipper on ONLY WHERE the seam line hits, about 1 1/2 inch. Then zip the zipper and see if your seam lines match! it is so simple! This way you don't have to unpick the entire zipper over and over until you get it right, and it is so much easier to sew the entire zipper in after that because it is already basted where it needs to hit. HALLELUJAH! Just pinning the zipper in place doesn't do much, because the zipper will shift when sewing. Basting is where I want to be! It will save your hair from turning prematurely gray!

See here: a perfect IZ with seam lines matching.

Another How-to from Ellen Switzer. Happy Tuesday!

2011-02-08T15:03:00.000-08:00

I'm working on Whitney's skirt today, and I think I'm going to have it done be tomorrow! I decided to put in a hem facing on the skirt hem, instead of just folding the edge up and sewing a blind stitch. I think hem facings are far more professional and actually easier to do. Here is how I did it:

Step One

Trace the bottom of your skirt pattern, making a facing, measuring up the sides of the skirt 2 1/4" to 2 5/8". Make sure you have a seam allowance on the bottom of the pattern, so you have enough to sew the facing to the skirt. Cut out the facing piece following grain of skirt pattern. Serge the edge of the facing that isn't sewn to the skirt-- the edge that you will see inside the skirt.

You are doing great! Step two:
Sew the front and back pieces of the skirt facing together, and then sew to skirt rights sides together, matching seam lines, and Center Front and Center Back.

The battle is won, now we have to win the war!
Step Three:
Trim the seam allowances that were just sewn. Trim the facing seam allowance to 3/8", and the skirt seam allowance to 1/4" (no seam allowances will show through the skirt if you do this).

Yay! Step Four:
Press the seam allowances open, and then edge stitch the facing to it's seam allowance. Pictured below is showing the right side of the facing and skirt. Then press the facing inside the skirt, favoring the skirt edge by 1/8", so that you don't see the seam on the hem at all. You'll be left with a nice clean edge without stitching showing.

Last step! Step Five:
Use the blind stitch on your machine to secure the facing to the skirt. Pin this well before you stitch so that the blind stitch is parallel to the edge (very professional). You'll notice with hemming with a facing that you won't get any wrinkles in the hem, because a lot of skirt hem circumferences are either larger or smaller than the circumference of the hem point on the skirt. I'm telling you, making a hem facing is where it's at. Below is what the facing will look like on the inside once you're done.

I think we have a winner....

2011-02-07T12:20:00.000-08:00

I got Whitney's lining in today for her skirt! Isn't the combo gorge?? My goal is to have this skirt done by Valentine's Day, so she has something nice to wear for... whatever she does.

Today I'll be altering the skirt pattern a bit, and cutting out the lining and yoke facing. I am taking a break from the damn zippers.

*&%($&%!!!!!!!!!!

2011-02-04T13:42:00.000-08:00

One thing I've learned about sewing: it lends to heavy swearing in my thoughts and out loud. 

Today I broke in my new Invisible Zipper foot, which is totally worth every penny and I highly recommend it. No more picking bad zippers or ironing!.......Or so I thought. 

After I took this picture, I sat down at my computer and the zipper popped open....... I will spare your innocent ears my reaction. I have NO IDEA what I am doing wrong, and I have never had this many problems with one dress before. I have another trick up my sleeve, which I think might work. I went to the gym afterward to get out my frustration, and to further that task I am going to watch reruns of Parks and Recreation until I'm wetting my pants in fits of hilarity. Have a good weekend.

I hope someday to look in my bank account and find something there. It's saving, right?

2011-02-03T09:37:00.000-08:00

Hello all! I am back from the dead and I missed you! I am 100% better, and taking extreme action this week to catch up. This week meaning the next two days, and next week. 

News:

I bought an Invisible Zipper Foot!!! I am SO happy I did. I'm trying it out today on my latest PD that needs finishin'. Pictures to come of finished product and review of the zipper foot, but here are the deats:

- It cost over $50 dollars, and I couldn't find it cheaper online anywhere (hence the stressed-out title of this post). Crazy, right? But I'm trying to think of it as an opportunity cost (business jargon) in that it would cost me more to rip out stupid zippers that fall apart all the time. And maybe I'll be able to have my semi-natural black hair a little longer without grays creeping in. 

- The main reason why it cost so much is that it's Bernina. I know that other sewing machine accessories don't cost this much. I am a Bernina snob and will never use anything else. 

I FINALLY put in all the papers to get my Business License as a seamstress and hair-accessories creator! YAY for productivity and checking things off that list! So next year I'll finally be able to count things as "business expenses", which is exciting. Like lunches where I "talk business", or a car with a "Poor Man's Wife" decal, or all my "business supplies" like a $50 zipper foot.......should I have waited a week to get that? Great. Already screwed up. 

So here is to a great month like February where we get things done, such as building your savings account!

Ugh

2011-01-31T08:08:00.000-08:00

I'm STILL SICK! What is going on? I think what was a cold is now a sinus infection. What's weird is that I felt absolutely fine yesterday, until I fell asleep watching the SAG awards and woke up with a slight fever. SO bizarre. I feel OK now, but I think I 'm developing a bad cough. 

Steve and I didn't see any celebrities up in Park City. Not a one. It was so sad. Steve made the observation that Park City during the Sundance Film Festival is the only time where people on the streets actually look you in the eye as they pass. Steve kept waiting for someone to mistake him as Ryan Gosling, which wouldn't be rude at all (but somewhat of a stretch)!

Speaking of celebrities and the SAG awards (and since I haven't sewn in a couple of days), here are my favorite dresses from last night and the Golden Globes. Agree or disagree?


Hailee Steinfeld in Prada. I love how young and daring it is! It think my little sister should wear something like this for prom.

Angelina Jolie and Anne Hathaway in Versace and Van Cleef & Arpels, respectively. Sleeves are in and I'm loving it!

Emma Stone in Calvin Klein. Love love love the sleeves and simplicity, but surprise sexiness, of this dress.

Ok, back to bed.