Sunday, March 4, 2012

Business in the Front, Party in the Back

I bought some Marc Jacobs double knit wool and Tissu a few weeks ago, hoping to make a suit. As I have never made pants before, I decided to hole off on those until I learn how to make a pattern for pants later in the semester in my pattern making class. I couldn't wait for the jacket, though. COULD NOT. I looooove this fabric. It sews beautifully. I might use double knit wool for all my jackets from now on. I like it because it is stable like a woven, but stretchy like a knit. In tailoring it is great because of that stretch, and the wool responds to steaming and pressing amazingly. 

Steve says that this jacket is his favorite so far. I said it reminds me of Vivian Westwood's Anglo-mania, whereas he said it reminded him of Janet Jackson's look during the Rhythm Nation era. I don't know if i was even live or coherent of pop-culture during that era, so I honestly couldn't tell you. 

Anglo-mania VS. Rhythm Nation: YOU DECIDE

I decided to do the lace back panel a few weeks after I bought the double knit when I saw it in Tissu. The concept for the jacket came to me immediately- a lace back panel that floats over the double knit. As I was making it, I decided to extend the lace a bit past the shoulder seam, applied like a hand stitched patch, so that it wasn't just a blunt edge. 

No blunt edge VS blunt edge? I personally like that the shoulder echos the back hem with the scallop.

Besides the lace, the only other ways this jacket is different from Ol' Velvet is that I added welt pockets and I interfaced the collar differently. On Ol' Velvet, there is only a simple fusible interfacing in there, making the collar flap around and no stand up, which is ok, because I wanted that jacket to be more casual in look so that it counterbalances the luxuriousness of the velvet. But with a wool jacket, I knew I would have to do something extra for the collar to make it stand up and not flop over. So, using the methods I learned in my tailoring class, I pad-stitched horsehair interfacing to the undercollar, making it super stiff.

Let's get to the pics, shall we?


  1. beautiful! i love the lace on the back, and i think you should keep the scallops on the shoulder.

  2. Love it Ellen! In my opinion it is one of the best things you have ever made! So cute and original!