Monday, October 18, 2010

Anna's Coat Saga

Last Friday, Anna came over again for a fitting. I was trying to get as much done during Anna's fall break from school, which is why she came over every day, and why we went out to lunch every day :).

The coat is lookin really good, as you can see. 

I still needed to do more work on Anna's handicapped shoulders. I needed to shorten the shoulder width and take the sleeve cap up about 1" so that the cap rested where it needs to be to look good. 

Once I fixed the shoulders, I went on to the roll line of the collar. In my tailoring class at BYU, we did a fully tailored coat that was crazy intense-- the coat was so tailored that I thought the coat was too stiff. Tailoring is done to create permanent shape in a wool garment with techniques using linen tailor's tape and extensive hair canvas interfacingFor Anna's coat I don't want it as stiff and bulky as my jacket from tailoring, but I'm still using some of the techniques. The roll line on a collar needs to look super good because that is where everyone looks first. So I marked a roll line on Anna's muslin mock-up as she wore it, transferred it to the pattern, and then to the wool, as seen below.

Then I cut out hair canvas interfacing for the stand in the collar. I want this to be somewhat stiff, so I didn't use regular fusible interfacing. I then steamed the collar in the shape it is supposed to be using a pillow. 

Anna is coming over again tonight to see if the shoulders are a good fit. I sewed the collar the the jacket and I love how it works!!! 

Today, I also started on my next dress. Here is a sneak peak: yellow stripes!!

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